Delicious Vietnam #1 - My favourite Vietnamese cookbooks.
>> Tuesday, May 04, 2010
For my contribution to Delicious Vietnam – May edition, I have decided towrite about my favourite Viet cookbooks. For a cookbook addict like myself, surprisingly, I don’t own a lot of Viet cookbooks (in either English or Vietnamese). Only the best books stay on my shelf. And these serve as inspirations and ways of connecting myself to my root.Up until 2006-2007, Viet cookbooks were so few and hard to understand. I guess before Asian cuisines become popular in the western world, describing native Vietnamese ingredients was not easy. Now, things have changed for the better! There are more ingredients available, and some excellent cookbooks on Vietnamese cuisine have been published.
Before proceeding, it’s worth noting that most of the following cookbooks are written in a way so that you can cook a good Vietnamese meal using readily available ingredients in the West. While some of the dishes may not be 100% authentic, they still capture the soul of the cuisine.
My major complaint is those books focus mostly on Southern Vietnamese cooking. The need for a more complete work on Central and Northern Viet cuisines is still there. And I’m patiently waiting.
It’s not easy to pick out which books are the best. But these are my personal favourites. You may spot the obvious Australian bias. After all, I live in the country!
In no particular order,
Into the Vietnamese Kitchen - Andrea Nguyen
I dare say this is a classic book on modern Vietnamese cuisine. A milestone and a must have. Author Andrea Nguyen put much care into writing the recipes and techniques, which is fantastic for novice home cooks. Recipes include those popular ones at Viet restaurants and other home-cooking favourites.
The Songs of Sapa - Luke Nguyen
Adorable and gorgeous! Sapa is a fantastic travel-cookbook, which detail Luke Nguyen’s experience in his home country. Compared to other Viet cookbooks, Sapa is more adventurous. The recipes are those Luke learned during his journey, so they carry a bit more authentic and local sense. I haven’t tried any recipes in the book, but the photos alone make me really homesick.
(My MIL said that Luke Nguyen was the most handsome young chef in Oz TV. Ha! Asian bias!! You, go, mom!)
Secrets of the Red Lantern – Pauline Nguyen, Luke Nguyen, Mark Jensen
(The name sounds more like a novel than a cookbook, doesn't it?)
An interesting read, accompanied by fantastic and solid recipes for modern Viet cooking.
I love Red Lantern restaurant. I do. To this date, it remains one of the best Viet restaurants in Australia. It is not pretentious but focuses on the vibrancy of South Vietnamese cooking – fresh, lots of herbs and undeniably sweet.
This book, for me, is more than a cookbook though. It tells the story of Australian immigrant family, from the first generation arrived after the war until now. I enjoy the book immensely since it gives me much deeper understanding about the life and struggle of those Vietnamese living overseas. Another point of view, and I do feel moved.
Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table – Mai Pham
Quite a basic book, full of familiar recipes. Published before ‘Into the Vietnamese kitchen’. No glossy photos, just plain text and illustration. The explanation was inadequate at points, but the recipes were good and solid.
This is my first ever Vietnamese cookbook in English and I love it still. The chicken pho is a must-try.
Wild, Wild East - Bobby Chinn
Bobby Chin is quite a character, isn’t he? A highly respected chef in Asia, true. But for some reasons his restaurant is not very popular among the local in Hanoi. (Oh, because it's expensive. First reason!)
Regardless, I LOVE his cookbook (and it’s not because he shares the same name as my husband). Of all the cookbooks I have seen, this cookbook has the most Northern influenced dishes, the kind of food I grew up with. There are some lovely Hanoi-style recipes there with some local knowledge. What’s more? Some personal Bobby Chinn’s style twist on the dishes, which I totally approve. The photography is stunning, too.
Authentic Recipes from Vietnam - Trieu Thi Choi and others
A few years back Trieu Thi Choi (with Trieu being the surname) was like the Martha Stewart of Vietnam. She wrote a lot of books on cooking, sewing and flowers arrangement (Basically, how to be a Vietamese domestic goddess?) I don’t like her recipes much since they fall into the ‘formal’ Viet cooking category, which is heavily Chinese-influenced.
That’s said, this cookbook is a gem. There are a lot of good and authentic recipes. Not much insight and detailed explanation to the cuisine, ingredients and techniques though. It is more suitable for those who are already familiar with South East Asian cooking. Side note: the beef stew recipe is a winner!
Honourable mention Vietnam chapter in “Fire” by Christine Manfield
The secret is out. I adore Ms. Manfield’s cookbooks. I have all of her books, back to the Paramount era. Every single one of them is fascinating to read.
Anyway, Fire is also a travel-cookbook with C. Manfield’s personal touch. She displays an insightful knowledge about Vietnamese cuisines, with some advice on travelling and where to eat. The recipes are no where near traditional. Rather, these dishes are C. Manfield’s interpretation of Vietnamese flavours. C. Manfield's book requires some basic cooking knowledge and the recipes are more complicated.
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I hope this small Viet cookbook review will be of help for those who loves this cuisine. There are a few days left for Delicious Vietnam (deadline is May 10th). So join us if to celebrate the love for Viet cuisine!
Information about Delicious Vietnam - May edition can be found here.
Note: Photos of cookbooks are from fishpond.com.au





















31 comments:
i have a wonderful vietnames cookbook called lemongrass and lime. it's a sort of modernised version, but i just adore the photography and so far, the recipes haven't disappointed. of course, i am just a lover, not an expert of vietnames cooking, so i couldn't judge the authenticity!
These books sound fantastic, I will have to check them out! I'm especially interested in Secrets of the Red Lantern!
These books look delicious. I need to hold myself back not to buy all of them.
It is easily noticed that there are very rare qualified Vietnamese cook books in Vietnamese :( I have a very old one, and i don't really agree much with the recipes :(
I love Vietnamese food but rarely cook it at home. Thanks for sharing these cookbooks. I need to get my hands on some of them.
I must get hold of Fire. Will try my best for the 10th. No promise but will try my best. :)
Fabulous list! I'm already a huge fan of Andrea Nguyen but all the others are new to me. Except for Filipino cookbooks, I don't have others that specifically focus on a single Asian cuisine; instead, I have a few compilations that cover the whole region. But there's a lot missing when trying to cover such a wide and diverse array of cuisines. I'm going to look for these books!
Great books Anh, I have the first three. Andrea's was the first Viet cook book I own and the first time I saw it I was so excited because I have never seen a Viet cook book on the shelves before. I made Banh Xeo from her book and this was the first time I exposed this dish to my italian bf (who now loves the dish).
Secrets of the Red Lantern has got to be ny favourite book though, it ripped my heart into shreads to think of what my parent had to endure to get here (I was born in transit in Malaysia). I cried many times as I read it; happy and sad tears. It is a powerful book that moved me immensely. I was fortune to meet Pauline as well and felt star struck; I had a lump in my throat as I talked to her because I was so happy. I can be kinda lame that way :P
Other viet cookbook I have is KOTO: A culinary journey through Vietnam by Tracey Lister & Andreas Pohl. Wonderful pictures, stories and recipes. KOTO is an organisation established in Vietnam to teach kids how to cook and find ways to get into the hospitality industry (and off the streets); most of them do exceedingly well.
I would love to find more viet cookbooks in vietnamese though for my mum as she doesn't cook that well. My dad use to make fantastic food but now he has to feed 6 kids so he doesn't put that much effort into it anymore :(
I can't wait to participate in Delicious Vietnam soon :)
(Sorry for the extremely long comment but I can't help it since it's a fantastic topic!)
A nice selection of books! I have been looking for a Vietnamese cookery book since long... I love that country's food!
Cheers,
Rosa
I've never heard of the last one. The first Vietnamese cookbook I ever saw was Nicole Routhier's "The Foods of Vietnam," published in 1989. It had a lot of substitutions such as grape leaves for la lot, but for its time, I thought it was pretty amazing.
I alternately loved and hated "Secrets of the Red Lantern." The recipes I have no complaint with, and her story was heart-wrenching, but it was hard for me to reconcile her dad's violence with food. I know that was the point of her trying to weave that together in the book, but it was still hard for me to merge the two.
I have several other cookbooks that aren't on that list. They're not always all good, but I think they're interesting to see how Vietnamese cuisine has changed in its presentation to the rest of the world.
What a fantastic selection of cook books. I've seen a couple of them in the book stores, but I'll have to keep my eyes open for some more. I do have to be careful nowadays, as I am collecting way too many.
*kisses* HH
Thanks for the recommendations! I've only cooked out of Mai Pham's and it is indeed excellent. Definitely going to check out the rest.
fantastic first entry and great insight to the books...it's sad but we own none. Ate once at Bobby Chinn's and have the same feeling as the locals :)
Wow, nice book review! I didn't know there were so many Vietnamese cookbooks out there. I lived in Hanoi and I must say that Bobby Chinn's restaurant was appreciated there among the expats (it's no longer there, unfortunately). My friends and I often went there for special occasions to enjoy the cozy ambience, warm chocolate pudding, and sheeshas. It's not a restaurant for the locals.
thepassionatecook, I’m checking out that book you mention. I own more Viet cookbooks, but those listed here are more solid and inspiring IMHO.
Faith, do read the Red Lantern, it’s a fantastic book by itself. Recipes are bonus (and tasty)
Mark, I realised that I own more cookbooks that I ever need!
Thythy, haha! I told you, usingcookbooks in Vietnamese, you have to read behind the lines! :P
Cherrie Pie, start with Andrea’s cookbook! You won’t go wrong.
Penny, hopefully you can make it!
Tangled Noodle, Andrea’s book is a good start. But there are more excellent books out there, too.
Phuoc, I know, girl! I grew up from other side in Hanoi and never knew how the Vietnamese overseas struggled until I came here. The red lantern book did open my mind a lot. Now living away from my motherland, I can share their sentiment.
Rosa, thank you.
Wandering chopsticks, I haven’t come across 1989 book you mentioned. There’s another one, a really old book which I hope to feature in a separate post. I also see your point about “The red lantern”. But all of it makes the story so real and honest, and I appreciate that.
HH, hope you can find one or two favourites.
Su-lin, I still come back to Mai Pham’s book. It’s like a best friend for me.
Ravenous Couple, I cook Viet dishes mostly without recipes. But I like reading Viet cookbooks. For curiosity and inspiration.
La Pham Nikita, Bobby Chinn is geared towards the expat, I know! It is located in West Lake area now, right? Not nearby Ho Guom anymore.
Thanks very much for this excellent introduction to Vietnamese cookbooks. It's very helpful, too, especially to novices like me.
I have Bobby Chin's book, but haven't cooked anything from it yet.
Wahhh looking at this makes me want to go out and buy more cookbooks! I should really try some of the recipes from Songs of Sapa first though hmmm
Thanks for the introduction to Viet cookbooks. Vietnamese food is very popular (and common) in California but I admit I am lousy at cooking Vietnamese food at home. I seriously need a cookbook like one of these.
Hi Anh. I love vietnamese food and actually have a copy of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen but have yet to cook out of it. Is there any recipe in there you'll recommend for a complete newbie in the culinary world of Vietnamese cuisine?
thecoffeesnob, I'd say to start with the chicken and cabbage salad. Or the fresh spring rolls (goi cuon). The pho recipes are a bit daunting, but worth the effort. I'll take a look at the book again. It's with my MIL, so I will do so when I visit her!
Great review Anh! I just realised I don't own ANY vietnamese cookbooks. Need to remedy that ASAP...now to decide where to start.
You have some nice collection of Vietnamese cookbooks there. :)
Thanks for the reviews, Anh! I have "Secrets of the Red Lantern" and loved the story woven through it. Good to know you rate the recipes too :)
I'm really fascinated by the "Vietnamese domestic goddess" you mentioned, Trieu Thi Choi, and the "formal" Vietnamese cooking that is Chinese-influenced. I didn't know there was such a thing - would love to know more!
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Great to be able to get some recommendations. I only have Luke Nguyen's books, which I love, but I'd be interested in looking at the other ones you've mentioned too.
Anh, Thanks for sharing all your favourite Vietnamese cookbooks. I have a few but only have tried a few dishes from Luke Nguyen. Love Vietnamese cuisine and hope to learn more from you.
Hi Anh,
I also love Andrea's Into The Vietnamese Kitchen (and her excellent blog), but I'm very intrigued by the description--and cover--of Songs of Sapa. I'll have to track it down, especially since I hope to be making my first ever trip to Sapa in December...How nice to see some exciting, authentic-seeming cookbooks out on the market these days!
Anh, i am actually dreaming of one day, you are going to have your own cookbook, maybe then the one abt central/ northern crusine :)
I am still gasping the variety of cooking you showcase here... sorry I have no knowlege abt the wonderful cooking of this lovely country, but I am really amased by their superb photography (at least the cover) and their very interesting themes!
Pleasures of the Vietnamese table is one of my very favourite. It is my bible to good Vietnamese food, have been for almost 10 years now :)
I also like Quick and Easy Vietnamese, by Nancy McDermott (Chronicle books). I am an American, and it gave me the entree to start cooking Vietnamese. I had looked at Mai Pham's book but felt too intimidated. Quick and Easy was so good that my husband, who spends his time moving cookbooks out of the way in all corners of our house, encouraged me to buy it after I had checked it out of the library several times. I am not a blogger, just commenting. luvcookbooks on twitter and @food52.
You can see a good collection of Vietnamese cookbooks in English here for your reference:
http://www.vietfoodrecipes.com/reviews
Enjoy!
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